Snack-bar Barbinha

The only remnant from the old days is the name, in memory of the former owner. In a time of crisis, it’s more important than ever to be creative under the pressure of austerity; to have good ideas that work and can be articulated within the rest of the team. With his considerable experience, Nuno Gonçalves can readily judge which clients are in a hurry to eat, and which are prepared to wait a little – so that the kitchen isn’t suddenly deluged with menu orders, and can work properly.

This intuitive form of management ends up causing less delays in the end… But we’re digressing. One of the big attractions here is the many and varied selection of house “nibbles” – all of them very Portuguese: grilled chouriço sausage, fried cuttlefish (a speciality from Setúbal), octopus salad, quails, fried gizzards and other traditional delights. This was always a hostelry for the working man – a spirit that remains today.

A complete meal here costs €7.50, and when we visited there were four choices: salt cod Gomes de Sá-style, turkey steaks with mushrooms, broad beans Algarve-style and shellfish “açorda” (a bready speciality).

We chose the last two, which were tasty but could have been better. Next time round, we’ll try our luck with the “petiscos” (tapas/ nibbles). But, as for dessert… here we discovered harmony and goodwill. It could be the secret of this place’s success…

Specialities: various tapas dishes, cataplanas, grills, fresh fish; Hours: lunches and dinners, closed Sundays; bill: €15 for 2; with terrace and seating for 68; NIF 509 433 413.