Café Mirasol, Portimão

They’re the arenas where the honour of local football clubs is defended with tooth and claw (sometimes that’s all there is), where talk of the crisis-without-solution is inexhaustable, where the daily newspaper is passed around from client to client in that inimitable spirit of sharing and community (that only exists in a café).

And even people who like to keep a low profile can’t resist taking part in the atmosphere, throwing in their pennyworth on the trivialities being discussed. Yes, up and down the country, these are the spaces where sociability is privileged! Cafés often act as extensions of private homes, for families to congregate and enjoy each other’s company.

In this particular café, there are only three tables. You sit wherever you find a chair. Sr Avelino is the host here and (excellent) cook. He has experience working in hotels and perhaps because of this he remains reserved but courteous and professional.

We’re told that it’s impossible to predict the dish of the day for the next day, as it always depends on whether there’s fresh fish in the market or not. But what you’ll always find here are fried snacks (the prawn rissoles and cod fish cakes are the best) – and sandwiches with unusual fillings, like “morcela” (black sausage).

Our lunch was a portion of fried squid with vegetable rice (€5.50) – something that could easily have been made at home, but good, honest food nonetheless. Sr Avelino also makes the desserts – and we’d recommend the “pudim de ovos” (€1.30). At the end we’re told if we ever want something special, or different, all that’s needed is a telephone call in advance to organise things. Five stars!

Specialities: dishes of the day, savoury snacks, sandwiches; Hours: opens early and closes at midnight, depending on whether or not there are clients. Closed Sunday; Bank cards: no, just money; Bill: €10.55 for one1, for lunch; Run by: Ascenção Maria Silva da Silva Marreiro; NIF 168 799 367.