Sto. António, Atelier de comida, Faro

At the back, which used to be an unprepossessing little-used lane, there’s now an unusual terrace.

On one of the walls an imaginary urban landscape reminiscent of the original Algarve has been painted in fresh tones: white houses facing the sea. Well-known by local residents, this grill house has had a major makeover.

So major that it’s unrecognisable – and the food’s been upgraded too, both in terms of quality and presentation. As far as we could see, it hasn’t affected prices.

They’re still fair and accessible. Murals facing Rua Aboim Ascenção (one of the main thoroughfares in and out of Faro) announce the dishes: Portuguese-style steak, mixed grilled fish/ meat, steaks in cream and mushrooms – all at €6.50. We chose the first – and it’s a good test dish, as some places really don’t know how to make this classic. But this one does: tender meat, with a slice of “presunto” ham on the top, a tasty sauce and homemade fried potato rings.

And, of course, they’ve kept the other side to the business going – a very important slice of the market: take-aways. Here, these involve grilled chicken (at €3.99 a portion), pork steaks and ribs (also €3.99 a portion) and fresh sausages (€4.99).

Another nice surprise – the new fresh fruit homemade ice creams, at €1 per scoop. You can also take ice cream home, at €10 a kilo. Delicious...

Specialities: charcoal grills, Mediterranean cooking; Hours: open daily. Serves breakfasts, lunches & dinners; Bank cards: credit & multibanco; Bill: €8.80 for 1, simple meal; Management: Correia & Mendes; NIF 501 813 756.