Casa de Pasto Calvário, Lagoa

In the old days, and still today, many of these kinds of restaurants were found on the side of main roads, and at crossroads where they served as watering holes for people passing through.

Or they were in the centre of small communities where the mists of time lent them reputations for excellent “petiscos”, the decilitre of wine, and jovial company at the bar.

This particular “Casa do Pasta” is in Calvário – a place renowned for its dances and popular festivals – and it’s pretty much true to type.

The tables are flanked by wooden benches, and the décor is made up of various antiquities – old petrol lanterns and farming implements.

The place has been run for the last nine years by José Carlos Silva Reis, 53, who has worked in the restaurant business in the Algarve since leaving the army.

He’s also the soul of the kitchen – a very Portuguese kitchen, too. We began our lunch with a small plate of filleted boiled fish (a typical way of conserving fish without their heads, cleaned and boiled in salt).

It was a delicious assortment of sardines and mackerel in olive oil, onion, garlic, tomato and parsley. These “petiscos” (side dishes/ snacks) are served in little saucers (for €2.75) and are the perfect starters.

The house speciality is its grills – once again made by the experienced proprietor. We share a wonderfully fresh “sarda escalada” (kind of large mackerel, also known as Atlantic bonito), with salad and boiled potatoes - every bit as good as the much more expensive fish that you usually find in restaurants.

But, beyond the food, what we really appreciated was the hospitality and good humour of our host. It’s little blessings like this that make our country worthwhile, and keep us all holding on for better days…

Specialities: grills, traditional Portuguese cooking: Hours: Lunches and dinners; Bill: €16.75 for 2; Owner: José Carlos Silva Reis; NIF 115 289 744.