Restaurante Mata Mulas

They all died of indigestion – and possibly by way of mockery – or because these dreadful stories live in people’s imaginations – the place has been known as “Mata Mulas” (Kills Mules) ever since.

It’s not easy to find for anyone who doesn’t know Olhão: it’s in the neighbourhood with all the single storey houses, next to the industrial zone. All the locals know where it is, so you only have to ask.

Above the bar counter, where friends, neighbours and business folk lean comfortably to talk with the owner and drink a “bica”, there’s a colourful display of scarves from all the main Portuguese football clubs (that way, no-one can take umbrage).

The dining room is spacious, and a complete meal here costs €7. They brought us a very generous one: grilled mackerel (we’re in the land of fishermen, after all…), a jug of wine, mixed salad, bread and olives. If you want some fizz to water down the wine, they’ll bring you a large jug at no extra charge. It’s worth going for lunch in good time.

If you don’t, the dishes of the day can run out: genuine, honest Portuguese food, like “feijoada” (pork and bean stew), meat and pasta, liver and onions and other national favourites. And everything else mirrors Portuguese culture: the daily newspaper is passed round from table to table, the TV is showing afternoon talk-shows – and on the wall separating the grill from the dining room is a naïve mural of a desert atoll. It reveals the name of the restaurant, which is actually “three palm trees”.

This place is also the base of the “11 de Março” cultural association. A delight to visit. Everyone who comes here is instantly made to feel at home…

Specialities: dishes of the day, charcoal grills; Hours: Lunches and dinners; Bank cards: Multibanco; Bill: €7; Owner: Davide Martiniano Estrela das Neves; NIF 183 363 140.