Restaurante Linha do Sul

It was a time when the whole subject of roads and vehicles was a lot simpler, and when “Canal Caveira” (in the middle of the Alentejo) was an (almost) obligatory stop-off point for anyone who delights in “cozido à portuguesa” (traditional Portuguese stew).

These days lots of people choose to return to Lisbon this way, as it’s cheaper. Curiosity had already been piqued on the advice of a friend to stop at one of the restaurants at the side of the road and try their special “cozido” soup.

So, I pulled up – looking for a light meal. Almost all the restaurants here proclaim the famous “cozido” on their awnings, or main menu. I chose the snack bar in Restaurante Linha do Sul, and so’s not only to order the traditional soup, asked also for a sandwich with Serpa cheese.

The soup was just the vegetables (white cabbage, carrots and beans), with some macaroni pasta in the broth (no hint of any meat), but even so it was delicious.

Then came the sandwich, in local bread, with wonderfully fresh cheese. Really good. For those whose wallets are unaffected by the crisis, the list of Alentejan wines is an attractive extra – but for me, things were just fine the way they were. With my stomach thus contented, I set back out on the journey southwards thinking how, in a country so beset by depression, one can still find simple but exquisite foods.

In stop-offs like this, there’s also the opportunity to buy precious local produce – honey, homemade sausages, all kinds of cheeses, little cakes and regional confectionary. As masters of style are wont to say: a little can go a long way. I’d spent just €4.50. Mission accomplished! So, next time you’re headed that way, you’ll know where to stop…

Specialities: Meat: “cozido à portuguesa”; pork with breaded croutons; beef stew; lamb stew; Hours: closed Wednesdays; Bill: €4.50 for “low-cost” cozido à portuguesa; NIF 505353385.