In the Heart of Nature

“There are so many stunning walks up here in the mountains,” German travel writer Osang, 61, tells us, “but, strangely, they are not so well publicised. For example, there’s one walk that takes in an old abandoned “ghost village” behind which you find the largest waterfall in Southern Portugal! Surprised? Well, that’s because no-one tells you about it!

“Living here – particularly since the fires when we “discovered” so many hidden places while delivering supplies to people who had lost their homes and possessions – I came to realize how few of the walks were well-known, and how difficult it was for people who enjoyed walking to find out about them.”

Using the “Via Algarviana” (the resurrected pilgrim’s trail crossing the Algarve from east to west) as the “backbone” of the picture, Osang has put together a marvellous easy-to-understand map measuring nearly six square metres of the entire Serra de Monchique, which is now up in Porca Preta’s bar area.

“It’s the most comprehensive map of local walks that you could find, and it’s been developed using a special software that town halls use for keeping an eye on building in their boroughs. The images are taken by aircraft flying at 3.000 metres – and we’ve just mounted the whole “concelho” (borough) on one wall, and marked all the different walks in colour, so that people can follow them easily. “A number of walks are circular, and start and end here or in Monchique – giving people the opportunity to have a meal, or a drink, before and/ or after.”

Indeed, there’s a guest house attached to the cluster of gallery buildings that can take up to ten people, and is ideal for groups planning a walking holiday. “Art is still very much a part of the place,” Osang is sitting in a little water garden on one of Porca Preta’s lower terraces, watched over by a bronze “Neptune” rising up out of the pond.

“We have some fantastic work hanging here – and continue to have regular art fairs every second Sunday (the next is on Sunday 13th June), where any and all artists have an open invitation to turn up and sell their work. It can be chaotic… but it works! And it’s something that you simply don’t find anywhere else in the Algarve.”

Indeed, former advertising agency man Osang is the driving force behind “Arte Algarve”, the Algarve’s only International Arts Fair - designed to showcase and sell local and international talent. It’s a relatively new event to the region, and celebrated its 3rd edition last weekend at the “Centro de Congressos do Arade”, in Lagoa.

“Originally, Porca Preta’s role was to help give artists from the Algarve the exposure they needed – but now we’ve moved much of that work to Galeria Santo António in Monchique itself, which is why developing the nature centre has been possible”, Osang explains.

And of course walking can build up an appetite… which is why the Porca Preta team are busy every day creating delicious lunches, whether for walkers, lovers of art, or simply passers-by.

The day we visited, Bulgarian sisters Lina and Irina were creating a symphony of enticing smells with Rolf’s partner Caroline Beens (who also happens to be an Honorary Consul for Panama!).

Dish of the day from this trio was traditional Monchique Black Pig, cooked in the oven with plums and perfect new potatoes.

“Our idea is that people can come here, walk, have lunch and then go on to see whatever we’re showing at the Galeria Santo António”, Osang continues. “In other words, a lovely day in the Monchique countryside - with the accent on everything being done in a relaxing, informal way. People interested in seeing life as it used to be will love this place – and a lot of the walks take in the many traditional forms of agriculture still practised up here.”

Plans for the future include “herbal walks” (where people will be able to identify medicinal plants) and all sorts of nature-related workshops.

And in case you’re wondering where that ghost village and waterfall is, the answer is “Barbelote”. Directions for the trail to Barbelote, and many, many others, can be found by visiting Galeria Porca Preta between 11am and 5pm from Tuesday to Sunday.

The gallery has produced a leaflet with a variety of walks, set out in picture style, taking in holy fountains, centenarian trees and even the vestiges of a local Roman Road. The majority of the walks are accessible to all ages, and all of them provide breathtaking panoramic views of what Osang describes as the “roof terrace” of the Algarve.

What more can we say… Happy Walking